Dhërmi - "Deep Blue Water"
Easily one of my favorite experiences in Albania. There’s incredible scenery, great hospitality, an interesting mix of Islam and Christianity, shockingly good food, and the Albanian Dhërmi beach that's absolutely magical.
Have you ever been somewhere you just felt instantly comfortable and at ease? That’s how I felt in the little coastal village of Dhërmi. Like I’d returned to a past life. Dhërmi is calm, stunningly gorgeous, and so welcoming and friendly that I felt like I could just stay there (I do every now and then, forever-ish). I’d read, I'd game, I’d sit on the beach, I’d learn to make goat cheese and bread, and much more during my stay. All that is to say… I’ll have to return.It was the epitome of laid back. And that’s probably due to the fact that we visited in September, when high season had all but died down. There were fewer restaurants to choose from (not to mention fewer dishes available on the menus) and less people on the beach, but it was still such a cool experience. To be honest, I’d love to return in high season and see it when it’s really hoppin’.
Drinking rakia in tiny glasses in the morning, coffee is incredibly cheap (and strong), and wine is sold by the carafe. You can see the Greek island of Corfu as you sit on the shores of the Albanian Riviera eating salads with fresh vegetables and crumbly cheese while you drink beers that are one-quarter the price. And those beaches are some of the best I’ve visited.
Albania just opened up to tourism in the 90s, so it’s incredibly unique to experience a culture that was so closed off until relatively recently. The government was communist up until 1992 and you can still see the concrete bunkers that were built all over the place by a paranoid isolationist dictator.
Although my time in Dhërmi was a short but memorable trip, Albania, I’ll be back for you, and that salty cheese. I'm ready to visit everything else you have to offer!
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